ALL of the content on this page is originated and authored by Vonna Pfeiffer, The Twisted Stitcher. These tutorials, tips and techniques are given freely for all to use. When using ANY part or piece of these tutorials in your own work, (i.e. if I have taught you to finish the item or part of the item) then crediting my name is the accepted way of "giving credit where credit is due". I expect nothing more than simple credit to my body of work. Thank you.
gather stitching and tart pan; separate the tart pan.
Place bottom on top of back of stitching, using a pencil or disappearing ink pencil, trace around the stitching leaving about 1 1/2 - 2 inches margins.
Layer cut out stitching piece on top of cotton batting, trim to size.
Using upholstery or heavy thread, make a running stitch around the outside edge of the stitching and cotton batting sandwich; then leaving needle attached, set aside.
using the bottom of the tart pan, trace around bottom onto mat board - do 4 tracings and cut out.
now using Aleene's Tacky Glue, glue two mat board circles together, making two sets of two mat board circles; set aside. We are using these later in the tutorial as "lift shoes" for our tart.
Using E6000, glue bottom into tart pan
Now back to the stitching piece with the running stitch around the outside, pretty side face down, grab up a bunch of fiber fill (I prefer Mountain Mist) and wad it into a ball, place it onto of the cotton batting side and using a mat board couple, press down onto the stitching on top of the fiber fill, slowly gather up the running stitch, using a chop stick to stuff in the straggling fiber fill, pull tight; check the front of your stitching...does it need more fiber fill? Does it look round and full? If not or if there are wrinkles or waves, add MORE fiber fill until you have a smooth, plump round looking stitched piece. (see photos that follow in sequence)
Once your are satisfied that your tart is nice and smooth and plump begin to lace your piece back and forth side to side to pull on all sides to secure. (see photos in sequence to get the idea)
take remaining mat board pair, smear glue on one side and place on the backside of the tart (as shown in pictures that follow) this mat board pair acts like lifts in the tart to make it stand above the rim like heel lifts in the shoes :)
Spread glue in bottom of pan, place stitching inside (mat board side down).
You may want to place a book on top for a few minutes so that all surface area touches pan bottom and makes contact with glue.
if you prefer written pictorial tutorials, it follows, however being a one person show, it was hard to remember to take still shots of the entire process...more detailed information and of course visual detail is contained within the video.
Things you will need:
1. Completed Stitched Piece
2. Red Homespun, mine is small check, I got it at Hobby Lobby however it is available at Joann's as well.
3. Twine (jute) I got mine at Michael's and it is by Celebrate It!
4. Jute Ribbon, I got mine at Michael's and it is by Celebrate It!
*both the twine and jute ribbon may be sourced at other craft stores (Joann's/Hobby Lobby) under different company names, but same product
5. Rusty Jingle bells - those used in the ornament finish are 1/4 inches in diameter. I purchased at them Factory Craft Direct they come in mm sizes...choose 6 mm, 10 mm or 13 mm sizes whichever you prefer. Mine are 6 mm.
6. Interfacing P44F by Pellon is what I use - it is a very light interfacing available anywhere you purchase fabrics. I get mine at Joann's by the yard or Joann's online by the bolt
7. White Quilting Cotton
8. Mountain Mist fiberfill
9. Chop Stick
10. Sewing Thread (ecru/ivory color)
12. Rotary Cutter and Self-Healing Mat
13. Quilting Square
14. Sewing Machine
16. Bamboo Points Turner (corner poker outer)
Photo Shot of the brands/color/size of bells for comparison:
Trim your piece on all 4 sides down to 3/4 inch from edge of stitching:
Cut a piece of your homespun to size of trimmed ornament and also a piece of white quilting cotton to size of trimmed ornament.
When I am finishing a "set" or "series" of items and I cannot finish them all at the same time (as it always is for model finishing I finish in groups of 3 - these ornaments WERE NOT finished at the same time for Little House) This is what I do every time so that I may get consistency and exactness across a series or set...I create "finish" kits. Consistency and sameness across a set of finished items makes those items even more beautiful when they each are finished in an exact manner/ exact sameness this is what I do:
When I get the size of backing material needed, I cut how ever many squares I need to complete the set and set them aside (In this case you will need 8 in your finish kit):
For this series I didn't know how many I needed but after finishing the first set of 3 I knew that every 3 ornaments took 1 spool of the twine, so you will need 3 spools of twine in your kit:
I wanted a 3 inch bow (from curve of bow to curve of bow) for this series, I generally held that "bow" shape and figured out the length needed and then cut 9 strands - reserving 1 for this finish and putting the 8 other lengths in my finishing kit:
I used four 6 mm rusty jingle bells on the corners of the ornament, so I put 32 rusty bells in my finish kit (8 ornaments x 4 rusty bells = 32 rusty bells)
On a slip of paper put what the "Finish Kit" is for and any notes you have:
I put what my margin was and also that my bow is 3 inches, slipped it inside the bag, zipped it up and pinned it on my design wall. :)
iron interfacing (P44F Pellon) to the back of the homespun and stitched pieces
Make your sewing "sandwich" by putting homespun pretty side up on the table, then your stitched piece pretty side down on top of the homespun, put your white quilting cotton on top, pin and sew with 1/4 inch seam allowances. At each corner, run off corner then reverse to lock and reinforce corners, pull off machine, clip thread and turn 90 degrees to go down alternative side. At bottom don't forget to leave a turning space that is also reinforced with reverse stitches to lock seams. Your piece should look like this when sewing is completed:
Clip corners diagonally where seams meet:
Turn out and poke corners out to SQUARE using your points turner.
HINT: run the points turner along seam edge to flatten and push out
Stuff with fiber fill, I use Mountain Mist brand.
Pin opening closed and using a blind stitch (or ladder stitch) sew closed, using ecru thread and a little wax on the sewing thread to strengthen it, before you begin sewing closed.
Getting a tan color thread, load your sewing needle and begin to hand sew the twine cording on along the edge of the ornament... Start at the top middle where your ornament "hanger" will be leaving about 4-5 inch length hanging off top (so start 4-5 inches down the twine, and then sink first stitch on ornament at the place)
I use a whip stitch, paying close attention to lay my thread into the "twist" of the twine, as I stitch and pull the thread it will virtually disappear into the twine.
When your twine meets at the top, loop our thread around both legs of the twine a couple of times and end off. Then measure out 4 inches with BOTH legs of the cording, CUT off spool. Then at the 4 inch mark, take sewing thread and sew the ends together (creating the hanger) by looping around and around the twine and ending off.
Make a 3 inch bow...find out how I do it HERE
Take the bow on at the joined legs of the twine at the top center of the ornament. STEP THIRTEEN:
Take the 4 rusty jingle bells, dampen a towel and rub them to clean off excess "rusty" so that it won't "rusty" your linen. HEAVILY WAX your thread the shank of the rusty bell will easily cut the thread, waxing heavily will help avoid this. Double your thread using a LOOP METHOD and just sew the bells on all four corners.
**HINT** coming through the shank from behind allows the jingle bell to stay to the front of the face of the ornament. This is what you want.