Learn to finish with the Twisted Stitcher

The Scarlett House "Orts and Ends Box"...

2012-02-16T07:58:00.001-05:00

Supplies Needed:

Stitched Piece

Cotton Batting

Foam Core

Painted Box (painting instructions included in The Scarlett House "Orts and Ends" Pattern)

Trim

Ruler, Rotary Cutter, Cutting Mat

Spray Glue

Craft Glue

Scissors

Decide on what size the foam core needs to be, I measured right up next to the design sides.

(For the count of fabric used in this model the form core turned out to be 3 1/2 inches X 3 3/8 inches)

Spray a bit of Spray Glue on the Foam Core and then stack the cotton batting on top.

(we are using a lot of batting because Tanya wanted the topper to be a pincushion as well! of course if you didn't want this option, then just omit 3 of the cotton batting layers and use only 1 layer)

Next lay and center your stitched piece on top of the cotton batting layers which sit on top of the foam core.

*as shown*

Take your craft glue, lay down a line on the bottom and fold back the sides until the front is perfectly centered and the sides are all glued back and down to the backside of the foam core.

Once you get your top mounted as shown below, then spread some craft glue onto the top of your box lid, center and press the Orts and Ends topper onto the box top. Lay aside to dry.

Once top is dry, lay a thin line of craft glue,and press the trim into it around the box topper.

Enjoy!

The Cube...

2012-02-10T11:32:00.001-05:00

Things you will need:

Styrofoam

Cotton Batting

Spray Craft Glue

White Craft Glue

Stitched Piece

Complimenting Material

Trims (cording, bows, ribbon, rick rack, etc)

Straight Pins

The type of styrofoam I use:

To make a custom size Cube, you will have to cut the styrofoam. I use a straight edge and a serrated knife.

For some cubes, I like a substantial width on them, so I will cut two pieces of styrofoam and then glue them together, or sometimes I just use one piece of styrofoam only - this will be up to you too on your project.

Using spray glue, spray one face of the styrofoam and press both pieces together. Your styrofoam will be uneven along the cut lines, lay a piece of sandpaper on the surface top and start rubbing all sides until each side is smooth and flat.

Now, once all the sides are smooth, I have a little secret that I do to make the top and the bottom perfectly flat. I tack (with straight pins) a piece of mat board all along the bottom and the top of the cube, as shown:

Next, spray the face and back of the cube with tacky spray and press a piece of cotton batting cut to size on both sides. On the front side, place the stitched piece, as shown:

Using straight pins, center and pin the piece all along the top and bottom:

Then flip and pin the sides:

Fold the corners down to the side as shown and pin:

Take your complimenting material backing and pin, just as the previous steps:

When all the pinning is done you will have a cube that looks like this:

The next steps I didn't photograph, but I will describe then at length:

1. measure the side of your cube (width) and the entire perimeter of the cube.

2. cut a piece of material that is double the width and the length +1 inch.

3. Iron this piece of material, light spray the wrong side of the fabric with your craft glue (just lightly to make tacky) fold one side of the fabric into the middle and then repeat until they slightly overlap in the center. This will make one long piece of fabric that you will wrap around the perimeter of the cube, hiding the raw edges and pins. IRON this long piece until smooth.

4. flip your cube to the bottom side up, in the center, lay one end of the long piece of material and using straight pins and your hammer, pin the end to the bottom of the cube.

5. Now pulling tautly, lay the fabric all around the perimeter of the cube until the final end meets on the bottom. (it will overlap where you started, cut to 1/2 in from the start (hiding the pins from where you started) and pin this end with three pins (they will show but will be hidden because they are on the bottom).

You can clearly see the side material piece here:

Once the material piece has been pinned and is finished, just embellish by putting cording around the face of the cube, layering the tops/sides with ribbon, rick rack, topping with a bow, topping with pins, etc. Please look at some of my cube examples for ideas:

The Floss Tag...

2012-02-08T15:31:00.004-05:00

What you need:

Acid Free Mat Board
Mack Knife
Cutting Mat
Ruler
Pen
Crop-o-Dile (or some sort of grommet setting device)
Grommets
White Glue (my preference is Aleen's White Craft Glue)
Floss Ring
Scissors

*NOTE* Crop-O-Dile grommet setters are used for scrapbooking typically. You can find them at any craft store (Hobby Lobby, Michael's, Joann's, etc.) Save your 40% off coupon and get them for about $15-18.
STEP ONE: measure your stitched piece adding how ever much you want to the right/left and bottom sides (personally I add an extra 1/4 to 1/2 inch to these sides) add 1 inch to the top of the piece for the "tag" part. Cut out the appropriately sized piece of mat board X 2 for top and back.
now measure down 1 inch from the top and draw a line:
STEP TWO:

STEP THREE: at the center draw a line down the middle:

STEP FOUR: depending on the size of your tag from the center line measure 1/4 (up to 1/2 inch for larger tags) make a mark on either side. Then using your ruler connect the side line to the top line as shown:
STEP FIVE: Cut off the corners following the cut lines drawn above and using this first shape as a template, line up the pieces and cut the other piece to the same shape as the first piece:
THEN, you have the front and back tag pieces!

STEP SIX: mount your stitching piece straight onto the mat board by centering and gluing edges to the back. I like to line up the top of my stitching with the corner I cut for the top "tag" part:

STEP SEVEN: do the same thing for the back material piece:

NOW, you have two tag pieces FRONT and BACK!

STEP EIGHT: take your crop-o-dile tool and center the hole punch part inside the top "tag area" and punch:

STEP NINE: using the top portion as a template use a pen to mark where the hole should be punched on the bottom tag:

STEP TEN: line up the mark with the punch hole and punch:

STEP ELEVEN: now get your grommets and crimp them on the front and the back tags using the crimping part of the crop-o-dile:

STEP TWELVE: put some glue on the inside of the tags and paying attention to lining up the grommet holes, sandwich together. It is a good idea to then place the tag under some weights to make sure that the tag is glued together and very flat. After a couple of hours, pull out the tag, place it on a ring and there you go ~ one beautiful floss tag to use for your stitching or give as a gift to a special friend :)

NOTE: you may also add twisted cording, chennile trim, bows, rusched ribbon, etc around the edge of the tag if wanted to "doll it up" a bit.

Floss Tags can also make a cute primitive ornament...pretty sweet, right?!

The Felt Mounted Ornament...

2012-02-08T15:11:00.000-05:00

Gather your supplies:1. Wool Felt: choose two different (or one) color(s) that compliments your design. I get wool felt off the bolt at my local Joann's, but if you can't find it, I have purchased from this excellent source online: Wool Felt Central. Or you can just use felt sheets from a craft store the choice is yours!

2. Scissors
3. Aleene's Tacky Glue (or white craft glue of choice)
4. Complimenting Ribbon for hanger and bow
5. Acid Free Mat Board
6. Rotary Cutter with "WAVE" blade (or pinking shears or a pinking rotary blade)
7. Needle and Thread (complimenting the ribbon color so that it is invisible)
8. Cotton batting

STEP ONE:
Measure your stitched piece and determine the amount of "free space" around your piece that you wish to have. (On mine I chose 1/4 inch, this made my mat board cuts 3 1/4 inches x 3 1/2 inches.) Cut the mat board out and mount the stitched piece onto the mat board (I did use quilt batting on the mat board to soften the top not pictured) Glue the edges to the back until your piece looks like this:

STEP TWO:
Take the newly mounted piece and place (do not glue - just lay it down) on the first color choice of wool felt, then rotary cut along a 1/4 inch margin around the piece. Until it looks like this:

**HINT**: to get corners that look nice, put the apex of the "wave" (the point of one) on each corner before you start cutting. Do one side having the point of a wave on the corner - cut to the next corner, turn, line up the point of the wave on the second corner cut, turn, and so on....

STEP THREE:

Now take the wave cut piece and lay it down on the second color of wool felt. And rotary cut around the sides.

**HINT**:

This time to get the "waves" to be "off set" (yes, I'm anal) put the point of the wave blade on the top of the wave wool cut already (in photo see that the point of the rotary blade is matching up to the point of the wave already cut out?) Line up, cut, turn, line up cut, turn, etc as done in the previous step. See how the "waves" are offset?:

STEP FOUR:

Cut a length of ribbon for a hanger and glue to the back piece (make sure it is centered appropriately or it will not hang straight!). Glue your mounted piece onto your first wool piece:

STEP FIVE:

Glue top piece to the back piece. Cut a length of ribbon, make a simple bow and sew onto the ornament. Put the ornament inside a plastic bag (to protect it) Leave the top "unzipped" so that the ribbons and bow can hang out and not get crushed) then but a heavy book or something on top so that it all dries flat and smooth:

~~Pat yourself on the back, 'cause that's one snazzy ornament~~

I've updated the look a bit since posting this tutorial how about these triple mounted felt ornaments, eh? Pretty snazzy!

The Jar Lid Pincushion...

2012-02-08T15:03:00.001-05:00

Gathering the finishing supplies:
1. Stitched piece (or material if you are making a non-stitched pincushion)
2. Base (I chose an antique Zinc Ball Canning Jar lid as called for in the pattern by Theresa Venette of Shakesphere's Peddler - she gets all the credit for incorporating the Zinc Ball Jar Lid - it is AN INGENIOUS idea! However, this same idea can be translated into many different things: a paper mache box, small basket, old measuring cup, wooden base, old tea cup - any thing can be used as the base for your pincushion and I've made pincushions using each one of these items. They are cute, folksy and a wonderful presentation!)
3. Crushed Walnut Shells (found in a pet store - sold in small to large bags as "bird litter" or "lizard litter")
4. Tacky Glue and a Glue Gun
5. 6 strand DMC embroidery floss (for sewing and for making cording)
6. Scissors
7. Fusible interfacing
8. Scrap mat board
9. Pen or Pencil and a marking pencil

STEP ONE:
Draw a circle around the design that is about 1.5 -2 inches larger (from the edge of stitching)

Taking your piece of mat board place on flat surface, place your base on top and trace the shape of the bottom of the base onto the mat board

Cut out both pieces, make sure that the mat board piece will fit into the base easily, if not trim some off all the way around. It does NOT have to be perfectly circular, just close.

STEP TWO:
Cut out interfacing to match the size of the stitched fabric and iron on (I use light weight craft fusible interfacing made by pellon). I believe this to be a necessary step because it gives stability to the piece and also holds all the crushed walnuts inside (they don't work out of the weave of the linen).

STEP THREE:
taking all 6 strands of a length of DMC Floss, thread a Chenille needle (or large eye needle) and make a running stitch 1/4 inch from the edge all around the entire piece.

STEP FOUR:
Lay the piece face down onto a flat surface, place a scant 1/4 cup of crushed walnuts on top of the interfacing (if it is too much you can let some out as your work your piece together), place the circle of mat board down on top of the crusted walnuts, hold down the whole pincushion sandwich and start to pull gently on the end of the floss as shown below:

STEP FIVE:
Lace around the bottom back and forth from each side to give a little shape to the pincushion, as shown, then end off. *HINT* sort of mold the walnut shells around inside the pincushion to make the perfect dome shape PRIOR to ending off.

STEP SIX:
Get your hot glue gun and put some glue in the bottom of the base. Then fit the pincushion part into the base part.

STEP SEVEN:
Make some cording out of a coordinating color, lay a thin line of glue around the edge of the pincushion and using tweezers, gently place and tap down the cording until it lays perfectly and you have a beautiful pincushion of your own to admire and love :o)

The Rusched Ribbon...

2012-02-08T14:58:00.002-05:00

Gather Supplies:

Ribbon - your choice of kind, your choice of width
Needle
Thread that is in complimenting color to ribbon chosen

Thread a needle with a long piece of thread. Knot the end. Now, using a running stitch, zigzag back and forth along the width of the ribbon - making little "triangles" like shown in picture:

Step One:

Step Two: Gently (so as not to break the thread), bunch the ribbon downward toward the knot - what results is beautifully rusched ribbon!
Continue in this manner, until your length of rusched ribbon goes completely around your finished item. Make a knot on the other end and then fold over the ribbon (just a bit) on both ends and tack into place to make a beautiful length of rushed ribbon with perfect ends. Attach to the item you are embellishing with your method of choice.

The Numbered Bobbin...

2012-02-08T14:49:00.002-05:00

Quick, neat, easy way to number your bobbins. Here's how to do it: purchase some bobbins, I love these that I purchase at Hobby Lobby:

Slip off the part that has the number of the floss on it.

Clip off the number...

Cut it at the end...

Slip it on the top of the bobbin and then tape...

Wrap your floss...

How neat, clear, concise of a stitcher are you?!

The Ornament Cording and Hanger 1...

2012-02-08T14:13:00.001-05:00

I have been e-mailed many times by curious followers how I do my cording around various projects to make it look seamless. This is one way that I do it.

Either purchase or make by hand a length of cording. Find the center of it and lay it aside.

Take your Flat Ornament Finish and starting on the bottom, lay a thin line of White Craft Glue along the edge.

Take the center of your cording and place it in the center bottom of the flat ornament, lay each "leg" of the cording down along the edge.

Turn to one side lay a line of glue and press the cording leg along the edge, repeat on the other side until your ornament looks like this:

Lay a line of glue along the top edge, press the corresponding cording "legs" along the edge until they meet in the middle, cross them like an "X" as shown below.

Thread and knot the end of a needle and take the two legs together at the "X" (do not end off with the needle and thread, leave it attached for the final step!)

Hold the two "legs" of cording together, measure up about 3 inches, make a knot and clip the ends - this makes the hanger. The knotted end will effectively be "hidden" in the branches of the tree so the cording around the ornament is seamless!

Now take a bow that you have made and using the needle and thread for the "X" tacking step (that you left in the project) Tack your bow down into the cording at the "X" junction as shown:

Admire that seamless cording, that fabulous bow, and beautiful ornament! How perfectly simple, Right?!

The Mounted Flat Ornament...

2012-02-08T13:41:00.000-05:00

Gather Needed Supplies:

White Craft Glue (I use Aleene's Tacky Glue)

Spray Craft Glue (I use Aleene's Tacky Spray)

Rotary Cutter

Ruled Square

Self-healing Mat

Scissors

Acid Free Mat Board

Cotton Batting

Coordinating Material

Stitched Piece

Coordinating Ribbon/Trim

Straight Pin

Step One:

Trim your stitched piece appropriately to the size you want.

(I am leaving no margin of linen showing around my ornament so I cut it 1" inch from the border.)

**NOTE:**

Please follow the steps outline in: The Flat Ornament... to mount your cotton batting and your stitched piece onto the mat board.

Step Two:

After mounting your stitched piece, play around with the amount of margin you want showing around your ornament.

(for this ornament it is about 3/4 inch on all sides)

Determine your size needed, cut two mat board pieces.

Step Three:

Choose your coordinating material. Cut two pieces to completely cover the mat board pieces cut in the prior step.

(I always put a "signature" patch on my ornaments, if you choose to do this, cut the "patch" out, and zigzag around it on the backing piece of material as shown in the pictures below)

Step Four:

Lightly spray with Craft Glue Spray, wave in the air to dry slightly until the surface is not wet, just tacky. Flip, center and press the mat board firmly against the fabric. Flip the entire mat board/fabric combo over and smooth out any bubbles, straighten the fabric (if needed), glue the top and sides to the back of the mat board.

Step Five:

Once the sides are glued back, iron the tops of the mounted complimenting material halves so that the material is perfectly wrinkle free and perfect looking:

Step Six:

Spread glue on one half all over and on the other half just at the edge. Cut a length (about 6 inches long) of ribbon for the hanger. Fold in half and place on the back half of the ornament backing.

Step Seven:

Place the other half on top of the backing half, sandwiching the ribbon hanger in the middle.

Step Eight:

Spread glue on the stitched part, center of flat mounting surface, drop and press on firmly to seal.

Step Nine:

Make some cording (you can find out how I make mine here: The Cording... ).

Lay a thin line of Craft glue around the perimeter of the stitched mounted piece, find the center of your length of cording and press it into the middle BOTTOM of your ornament. Take each "leg" of your cording and work up the side, ending up at the top middle, lay one leg of the cording down, place a dot of glue and lay the other leg of the cording down.

Step Ten:

Make a bow out of your coordinating ribbon, place a dot of glue at the junction where your two cording ends met, so that you can "hide" them. Place the bow on top, using a straight pin, attach the bow.

Admire your beautifully finished ornament! That's all there is to: The Mounted Flat Ornament ~ Vonna style!

The Flat Ornament...

2011-10-12T11:34:00.001-04:00

Supplies Needed:

Stitched item

Complimenting Material for backing

Mat Board

Craft Glue

Spray Craft Glue

Large quadrant ruler

Cutting Board

Cotton Batting

Scissors

Mat Knife

Cording (handmade, purchased, etc.)

Step One:

Determine what the size of your ornament shall be by measuring the size horizontally and vertically. Figure what your margin size will be and imagine how it will look, add the additional margin measurement to the size of the ornament measurement both vertically and horizontally. Write down these dimensions for use later.

Step Two:
Trim your edges with a rotary cutter.

HINT: this will largely be decided by what your ornament deminsion will be (i.e. the border size) but trimming to 1" on all sides is usually a good start.

Step Three:
Cut a piece of complimenting material to size of your trimmed stitched piece.

Step Four:
Using the dimensions you wrote down in Step One, cut out TWO pieces of mat board. Using spray craft glue, spray one side on each piece and press onto cotton batting. Trim the cotton batting on each edge to size of matboard.

Step Five:
Mount stitched piece to one of the mat board pieces, with the cotton batting side to the stitched back. Glue back edges with craft glue. Do the same with the complimenting material on second mat board piece.

Step Six:
Spread craft glue around on backside of complimenting material square and sandwich the stitched square to the material square.

Step Seven:
After allowing to dry, lay a line of glue on your ornament side (one side at a time, paying attention to the corners) and lay your cording. Make your hanger to your preference, embellish to your preference and once complete set aside to dry.

Step Eight:
Enjoy your fabulous flat ornament!

A Stitcher's Companion Embroidery Hoop Box...

2011-10-04T19:10:00.000-04:00

Supplies Needed:
6 six inch wooden embroidery hoops
1 wooden plaque approximate size 6 1/4 inches radius
Wood stain
Old Sock
Rubber Gloves
Wood Glue
Sandpaper
Small paint brush
Drill/Drill bits
Hinge and Screws
Mat Board
DMC Pearle Cotton
White Craft Glue
Glue Gun
Complimentary Material
Stitched Piece
Spray Adhesive Craft Glue
Cotton Batting

Step One:
Disassemble all the hoops and remove the stitckers from each piece. Lightly sand all the pieces and any tacky residue left over from the stickers.

Step Two:
Put on rubber gloves.

Get your wood stain.

Get your old sock and stain all the wood pieces.

**HINT: protect your work surface with an old newspaper!

Once all are stained; let dry.

Step Three:
Get your wood glue (I use this brand):

And using a paint brush run a line of glue along the edge of the inner hoop of the embroidery hoop.

Start building your box as such:

Once you have a stack of five inner hoops built. Line the bottom hoop edge with glue and press firmly onto the wooden plaque.

Then paint a line of glue around the inside edge as shown (glue dries clear and becomes invisible). Set aside to dry overnight under some very heavy books so that all edges make contact while drying.

The next day, when the "box" is dry, take the outer hoops and load those onto the inner hoop box. Tighten screws.

Mounting the Lid

Step one:
Take an inner hoop and use as a template to draw a circle (inside of hoop) onto mat board. Cut out. Spray with adhesive craft glue. Mount cotton batting on top, trim.

Do the same thing for the outer hoop (the one with the screw) except using as a template trace the outside of the hoop onto mat board. Cut out. Spray with adhesive craft glue. Mount cotton battng on top, trim.

Step two:
Mount the smaller circle with the complimentary fabric. Set aside.

Step Three:
Mount the larger circle with your stitched piece. Set aside.

Step Four:
Attach the outer hoop to the inner hoop, run a line of glue around the edge and mount the stitched piece mounting on top. Place under a heavy book or two and let dry.

Step Five:
Take your hinge and mount onto the back of the "box" directly across from the screws on the topmost hoop.

HINT: how I did this was held my hinge in place made two small pencil marks where the screws were to go, drilled a small way into the hoop where the pencil marks were - just enough so that the screw would have a start. Put a dab of glue on the hoop by the screw holes. Held the hinge in place and screwed in the screws. The glue will go down into the hoop wood as you are screwing and will give added support.

Step Six:
Once the top mounted lid peice is dry, using a glue gun run a line of glue around the inside edge of the hoop right up next to your mounted/glued stitched piece. Place the coordinating material circle inside. Press firmly. This will be the inside of your "lid".

Lay the "lid" on top, aligning the finger screws in the front, lay the hinge up against the "lid" make your pencil marks, drill the beginning, lay a dab of glue, screw in the screws.

You are done and now have a most beautifully perfect:

The Stitcher's Companion Embroidery Hoop Box

Note: I made a circular pincushion for my needles to be housed inside my box as seen above.

A Embroidery Hoop Scissors Keepe...

2011-10-04T17:58:00.000-04:00

Supplies to make one just like mine:

4 inch embroider hoops

2 wooden plaques (mine came from Hobby Lobby Craft Stores)

Wood Glue

Small Paint Brush

Wood Stain

Rubber Gloves

Old Sock

Drill/Drill Bits

Sandpaper

Step One:

Remove all the stickers from your wooden products. Sand lightly to get rid of gnarls and any sticker residue.

Disassemble (separate) the inner hoop and outer hoop of the embroidery hoops.

Step Two:

Put on some rubber gloves, grab your stain and old sock and stain all wood pieces. PROTECT your work surface with an old newspaper. Let dry.

Step Three:
Once all wooden pieces are dry, take your wood glue, small paint brush and "paint" a line of glue on the edge of the inner hoop.

Here is the wood glue I use:

Start stacking the inner hoops together, one on top of the other. Mount all of them onto one of the wooden plaques and glue in place. Let dry.

Finally add the outer hoops and tighten down until you have a piece resembling this:

Step Four:

Drill four holes into the other plaque. (HINT: have your scissors handy so that you can check to see if they fit!)

Sand the top, sand the inside of the hole. Restain top and stain the inside of the scissor holes.

Step Five:
Line the top hoop rim with glue and place the top plaque on firmly. Let dry.

HINT: I also put a heavy book or two on top so that the whole piece would dry with the edges all touching.

Step Six:
Add your scissors and enjoy!

The Bell Pull...

2011-09-21T12:04:00.001-04:00

Things you'll need:
Bell Pull Hardware of some kind (the bell pull hardware that I am using is manufactured by Images Stitchery)
Stitched piece
Complimentary Backing fabric
Fusible interfacing
Cutting mat
Rotary cutter
Large gridded measuring square
thread
needle
thimble
sewing machine
scissors

Step One:
Determine the width your bell pull will be. This will largely be determined by the width of your bell pull hardware. For my bell pull, I cut my top and bottom 2 1/2 inches from the edge of the design. (this gives about 1 inch margin for the top after attaching bell pull hardware (which will use up about 1/4" based on thickness of bell pull hardware), using a 1/4" hem thus leaving a 1 inch margin on the back.

*To determine your top and bottom margins, measure, step back and visualize how you want yours to look. Just remember to add in the 1/4 - 1/2 inch allowance for hemming and hanging on the bell pull.
My sides are cut 1 inch from the edge of the stitching, which translates into a 3/4 inch margin after sewing.

*NOTE* you'll have to determine your top/bottom/sides margins based on your piece. Don't cut yours to my sizes listed....they suit my hardware and my piece, you will need to determine your specifications based on your own project and bell pull hardware.

Step Two:
Cut out a piece of backing material to size of the stitched piece and two piece of fusible interfacing; one for the stitched piece and one for the backing material.

*Note* pictured below is the kind of interfacing I use for things that I want to hang straight, firm and give a little added structure and weight to the piece. This can be purchased at any fabic store.

Step Three:
Iron your interfacing to the top and bottom pieces per directions of your interfacing. (Typically about 20 seconds on high heat from backside. No steam!)

Next, with pretty sides facing, pin together to prepare for sewing.

Step Four:
Using 1/4 inch seam allowance, sew sides. Leave top and bottom unsewn. Turn out. Iron.

Step Five:
Fold over 1/4 inch for sewing, iron and then sew the top/bottom closed with a whip stitch.

*NOTE* this will be to the backside so it won't be seen, you can just use a whip stitch, however you can use a blind stitch too if you want it perfectly invisible, whichever you wish. I just used a whip stitch.

Step Six:
Fold over 1 inch; iron; then place hardware onto end; whip stitch to attach. Repeat for bottom. Once bell pull hardware is completely sewn on, cover with towel and iron the whole bell pull top to bottom - but not the bell pull itself as the finish will come off!

All done!

The Pillow Ornament...

2011-09-19T09:21:00.000-04:00

Things you'll need:
Large gridded ruler
Cutting Board
Rotary Cutter
Scissors
Sewing Machine
Thread
Needle
Intefacing
Corner Tool
Fiberfill
Fiber to make cording

Step One:
Determine your ornament dimensions using your large gridded ruler.

Hint: Most sewing machines have a presser foot that has a 1/4" seam allowance. I have found that a large majority of stitching looks best if the seam margins are smaller, thus showcasing your work. I cut down most of my sides to 1/2 - 1 inch margins. Its a scary thing to do, but just remember, as long as you have 1/4 inch to sew...you'll be fine.

Trim your margins down to your determined size by using a rotary cutter. (for this example I trimmed down to a 3/4 inch margin. Which when sewn will leave 1/2 inch margins on all sides.)

Remember: Measure twice, cut once! Get those margin cuts straight! Don't mess up on this step or the project could be ruined.

**CUT** complimentary backing fabric to size of trimmed cross stitch piece.

Step Two:
Take your fusible interfacing (picture shown for kind I prefer) and cut out two pieces to size of stitched piece and backing material piece. Following your chosen interfacing directions, iron as directed to the backs of complimenting fabric and stitched piece.

HINT: why I use interfacing for ornaments? Ornaments hang on a tree (or door knob, etc) and I want them to hang straight, be perfectly smooth, with nice square corners for some reason it irritates me if they do not hang that way. I have found over the years, that those ornaments that I have made using interfacing store better, look better and age better. You may illiminate this step if you prefer otherwise.

Step Three:
Putting right sides (or pretty sides) together, pin and sew using a 1/4 seam allowance; leaving a space for turning (about 2 inches wide) at the bottom.

HINT: I always start at the bottom just above the corner...sew to the corner, leave needle down, turn, sew up side to top corner, leave needle down, turn, sew to next top corner, leave needle down, turn, sew to final bottom corner, leave needle down, turn, sew just beyond corner leaving the space for turning.

Step Four:
Clip your corners! This makes for crisp, clean, perfectly pointed corners after turning.

Step Five:
Turn out.

*don't forget to use your corner tool for gently poking out your corners.

Step Six:
Once all turned out; roll in the turning space seam then iron with steam.

Step Seven:
Stuff with your choice of filling (I use polyfill).

HINT: Pay special attentions to the corners...pack those extremely tight so that they don't fold over or look whimpy when finished. Also make sure the stuffing is tight along the seam edges too...this gives support to the overall ornament structure. The middle may be stuffed tightly or loosely whatever you prefer, however if you pay attention to the stuffing along the seams and corners, you'll thank yourself years from now.

Step Seven:
Thread a needle with thread that compliments your stitching fabric and blind stitch turning hole closed.

Step Eight:
Take your cording and find the middle.

Place the middle of your cording in the middle at the bottom of your ornnament. Stitching in the ditch (which simple means running a stitch along the edge of your sewing seam) stitch your cording on. I don't couch cording, I sort of do a running stitch (in the ditch) up and down along the cording. I don't do tight stitches, but I do them tight enough that the cording lays very close next to the ornament and in the seam.

Step Nine:
After sewing the cording on, making the hanger as you like, step back and look at a perfectly beautiful pillow ornament to hang and admire!

Cording...

2011-09-19T07:35:00.001-04:00

Things you'll need:
Fiber in complimenting color to your project
Scissors
Stationary hook
Krenik Cording Drill
Patience

Step One:
Take the fiber you are working with and loosely wrap/lay it around the project where you want the cording to be eventually. This is one way to measure the circumference of the project. Keep your finger at the end of the length, then fold over (down the length of floss), fold over, fold over until you have a length of fiber that is 4 times the length from starting.

Example: the circumference length is 4 inches, you will need a length of floss to twist that is 4 times that length...or 16 inches.

Remember: when you twist cording the length will shorten, plus you are going to fold it over to twist so that will halve the length!

Step Two:
Cut the number of lengths of floss to size determined above that you want for the thickness of cording you want. I typically use anywhere from 3 strands to 8 strands. (3 strands will be thin cording whereas 8 strands will be very thick)

Again Remember: the strands will be doubled at the end because of folding and twisting! So a three strand twist will actually turn into a 6 strand twist.

Step Three:
Make a slip knot very close to the end and hook it onto your cording drill. Pull tight. Make a second slip knot on the other end of your lengths of floss and hook it to your stationary hook. Pull tight.

Step Four:
Stretch out across the room from your stationary hook and make sure the length of fiber is straight and firmly stretched out, but not tight or loose. Begin to twist your cording by turning the "drill". Twist until the fiber is tightly twisted and about ready to twist up on itself. Hold it firmly tight now, stop twisting, but don't let it twist up on itself.

Step Five:
Now here is where it can all go wrong....but with patience and practice it gets easier and easier....Slip the end of twisted fiber off of the drill hook (Pinch it off with your thumb and forefinger, do not try to pull it off by the slip knot or it will unravel!). Take the drill and slip the hook onto the floss. Walk it down to your stationary hook (holding the drill hook very firmly) so that you are actually halving the floss (BUT don't let the floss touch the other half of floss on the other side or it will twist and then you'll say some bad words!).

Step Six:
When you reach your stationary hook, pinch off the fiber with your thumb and forefinger (now both ends of the fiber will be pinched in your thumb and forefinger. Drop <gently> the drill to the floor (with it still "connected" to the center of the fiber, then hold your arm up with the ends of the fibers pinched in your fingers and let the floss twist together until the drill stops revolving. Then immediately drop the drill to the floor to stop any unravelling.

Step Seven:
Holding your ends still firmly in your fingers, tie off your slip knot ends. Slip off the drill and hook that end (folded end) of twisted cording onto your stationary hook, place knoted end in your drill hook and twist again (NOTE: revolving the drill the opposite way you originally turned to make the cording). This step allows the cording to tighten itself. After twisting until it is tight, take off the drill and run your cording through your hands while it "untwists" straightening it by gently letting it run through your hands.

Step Eight:
Slip your cording off the stationary hook, clip the dangly end off (right at your knotted end) and admire your handmade cording that perfectly compliments your stitched piece!

The Jar Wrap...

2011-07-26T12:15:00.001-04:00

Items you will need:
1.) stitched piece and coordinating backing material
2.) velcro
3.) large button that coordinates with project
4.) coordinating rickrack
5.) sewing machine and/or needle and thread
6.) mason jar

Step 1:
Trim linen to 1/2 inch on top and bottom from the edge of your stitching. (note: side length will be determined by the circumference of your jar - see steps below)

a.) take the jar that you are going to use for the button wrap and measure its circumference - write the dimension down.
b.) translate this to the width of your stitched piece adding an extra 1/4 inch to both sides for end seams
c.) trim the sides to the size determined

Step 2:
cut your backing material to exact size as your trimmed stitched piece

Step 3:
Cut two pieces of rick rack (I used wide sized rickrack) to exact width size of your button wrap. Make sure your rickrack won't fray by using this technique

Step 4:
Pin the rickrack to the front side of the button wrap making sure that the "waves" of the rickrack will run along the cut edge(s) of the button wrap. Do this for the top edge and the bottom edge as shown below:

Step 5:

Place the coordinating backing material face down (right sides facing) onto stitched piece

Step 6:
Sew using 1/4" seam allowance along the top edge and the bottom edge; this leaves both ends open.

Step 7:

Turn out and iron

Step 8:
Fold ends under (into inside); finger press and blind stitch closed.

Step 9:
Sew on velcro by placing square on top - linen side (right side of button jar wrap) and the other square on the backing material side (wrong side of button jar wrap). Sew the large button on linen side (on top of) the velcro to "hide" it and make it look like it is buttoned on the jar.

The Jar Wrap:

"Maddie Button Set"

Designed by: The Scarlett House ~ Tanya Brockmeyer

To learn more about Tanya, see more of her designs and learn where to purchase them, please visit The Scarlett House

*Please see my other tutorials located on this blog to learn how to finish the Pin Cushion and the Fob*

The Fob....

2011-07-26T10:41:00.002-04:00

Items you will need:

1.) stitched piece and coordinating material

2.) trim: chenille, cording, braiding, etc.

3.) filling: walnut shells (sold as bird/lizard litter), polyfill, polypellets, etc.

4.) sewing machine and/or thread and needle

Step 1:

Trim linen to 1/2 inch on all sides from the edge of stitching and cut a piece of coordinating material to exact size as trimmed stitched piece.

Step 2:
Pin the two pieces together; right sides together.

Step 3:
Using a 1/4" seam allowance sew together leaving about a 3/4" space on the bottom for turning.

Step 4:

Clip corners (diagonally close to seam, but not INTO seam), then turn out.

Step 5:
Use a corner tool to gently poke out the corners.

Step 6:
Fill with crushed walnuts (or filling of choice), fill until firm.

Step 7:
Blind stitch opening closed.

Step 8:
Couch chenille trim see diagram (or trim of choice) along the seam; at the top of the fob; make a loop for connecting the fob to your scissors (keep it short), tie a knot and scoot down until it is nestled against the fob, tack in place; continue couching chenille (or trim of choice) until the ends meet, then clip and end off. Use a tooth brush to gently "fuzz" up the chenille to make it fuller and to also help the clipped ends to disappear.

The Finished Fob:

"Maddie Button" Fob and Set

Designed by: The Scarlett House ~ Tanya Brockmeyer

*You may learn more about Maddie Button, about other wonderful designs put out by Tanya and where to purchase them at The Scarlett House

*Please see the other tutorials located on this blog for The Pin Cushion and the Button Jar Wrap*

The Pin Cushion....

2011-07-26T10:17:00.001-04:00

Items you will need:
1.) stitched piece with coordinating backing fabric
2.) sewing machine and/or thread and needle
3.) filling such as: crushed walnuts (sold as lizard/bird litter), polyfill stuffing, poly pellets, etc.
4.) trim such as: chenille trim, cording, braiding, etc.

Step 1:
Trim linen to 1/2 inch on all sides from edge of stitching and cut a piece of coordinating material to exact size of the trimmed stitched piece

Step 2:
Pin the two pieces together (right sides together)
NOTE: I sometimes will use iron-on interfacing on the stitched piece especially if I know it will be used as an actual pincushion and not just as a "pretty". Purchase this at your local sewing/craft store and follow the directions.

Step 3:
Using a 1/4" seam allowance sew around all four sides of the piece leaving about a 2" space for turning at the side.

Step 4:
Cut diagonally on all four corners (close to the seam but not INTO the seam) this will rid the corners of bulk. Once this has been accomplished - turn out.

Step 5:
Using this handy dandy corner poker outer (sorry I don't know the technical term) gently poke out the corners until smooth (key word here is gently if you go at it like mad, you'll make a hole in your linen/material and there will be problems).

Step 6:
Iron, then fill with your stuffing of choice. I use crushed walnuts. Fill/Stuff until the cushion is tight.

Step 7:
Close the opening using the blind stitch as shown:

Step 8:
Couch chenille trim along the seam as shown in diagram:

continue in this manner until the ends meet, then end off and clip. Finally, Use a toothbrush to gently fuzz up the chenille to fill in any gaps and to make the clipped ends disappear:

The Finished Pincushion:

"Maddie Button" Pincushion

Designed by: The Scarlett House ~ Tanya Brockmeyer

Information on the designer, where to purchase the design and other wonderful designs by Tanya may be found at The Scarlett House

*Please also see my other tutorials located on this blog to make The Fob and The Button Jar Wrap*

RickRack...

2011-07-15T08:49:00.003-04:00

REMEMBER: attention to detail makes ALL. THE. DIFFERENCE.

Have you ever fretted over your polyester rickrack fraying? Fret no more:

Step 1:
Take frayed end rick rack

Step 2:
clip off nasty frayed end

Step 3:
take butane (grill or cigarette) lighter and burn end until slightly melted (PLEASE NOTE: MOST prepackaged rickrack available in sewing/craft stores is polyester. So please check prior to using this tutorial to make sure that your rickrack is polyester and not cotton)

Step 4:
It will fray no more!

Clean, perfect rickrack edge = attention to detail = superior finish!

The Box Top...

2011-07-06T06:35:00.001-04:00

To finish a stitch peice into a box top the way I do it, you will need:
1.) Acid free mat board
2.) Cotton batting
3.) White Craft Glue (i.e. Aleene's Tacky Glue)
4.) Craft Spray Glue (i.e. Aleene's Tacky Spray)
5.) Scissors
6.) Rotary Cutter
7.) Large quadrant ruler and self-healing cutting mat
8.) Stitched piece
9.) Complimentary material
10.) Chenille trim* (handmade cording, braiding or other trim of finisher's choice)
*now widely available through on-line websites, hand-dyed floss manufacturers and many other locations.
11.) Box of choice (wooden, paper mache, etc)

Step 1:
a.) Iron your stitched piece as discussed HERE
b.) On your cutting mat, measure the stitched piece both height and width.
c.) Decide what your margin will be (the space from the edge of stitching to the edge of the mounted piece).
d.) Write it down so that you don't forget.
e.) Then measure twice and cut once

Step 2:
a.) Cut a piece of mat board to the exact dimensions that you wrote down in Step 1
b.) Spray the mat board with the craft glue spray
c.) Press (glue side down) onto cotton batting and trim to size

Step 3:
mounting the stitching...
a.) Now mount your stitched piece onto the mat board (there are various hints and tips about mounting found on The Flatfold tutorial found HERE )
b.) Once the stitched piece is mounted; set aside to dry a few minutes and move to Step 4.

Step 4:
a.) Take the box that you plan on using and measure the inside bottom (and top if desired) of the box.
b.) Write the dimensions down
c.) Cut the mat board to size and try the fit in the box
NOTE: if the mat board does not fall (without your pushing) flat to the bottom of the box trim 1/8" off on the top side and one of the sides. Try the fit again and trim until the mat board falls straight to the bottom of the box without pressure. This will allow the board to fit when we have the lining material mounted on it.
d.) Once fit is perfect, spray with craft glue spray
e.) Press (glue side down) onto cotton batting and trim

Step 5:
Lining the box....
a.) Take your complimentary material and iron it so that it is without creases and perfect
b.) Mount onto the precisely cut and fitted to your inside box bottom (and inside box top - if lining inside top too)
c.) Spread generously with glue on the backside of the complimentary material mounted piece and press into the bottom of the box (repeat if lining the inside top of the box)
d.) Make sure to spend some time pressing the lining into the box and making sure that it stays down *especially* in the corners.
NOTE: if glue shows around the edge of the piece, take a tool (i.e. screwdriver, knitting needle, etc) and clean the edges of the lining piece free of glue *wiping frequently on a tissue or paper towel* OR you can leave alone because if using Aleene's the glue will dry clear and will not really be noticeable.

Step 6:
mounting the stitched piece to the box...
a.) Take the mounted stitched piece and generously spread with glue
b.) Center and press onto top of box
c.) Using your choice of pressure (I use an old milk crate filled with magazines), spend a bit of time pressing the mounted piece onto the top of the box so that all sides make contact and the piece is flat and adhered to the top.

Step 7:
adding the trim...
a.) Once the piece is mounted to your box and in place, run a thin line of glue around the edge of the stitching onto the box.
b.) Lightly press the chenille into the glue line and around the stitched piece making sure it is flush.
NOTE: I start my trim in the bottom middle area and all the way around the box counterclockwise. Once the chenille trim meets, put a tiny dot of glue on top of the end of the chenille trim layed down at the beginning, clip the meeting chenille end 1/8" past the meet spot and press into the glue dot.
c.) After about 15-30 minutes the chenille glue should be nearly dry, take a tooth brush and gently "fluff" the chenille with the tooth brush filling in any areas that may not be perfect, including the area where the ends meet - as this will allow meeting ends to totally disappear)
d.) Stand back and admire your box

"Stitch Together"

Designed by: Tree of Life Samplings ~ Jan Alexander

The Flatfold...

2011-01-13T11:23:00.003-05:00

NOTE: I find the flatfold is the perfect finishing technique for those stitching projects that you don't necessarily want to frame, yet the stitching demands something of "importance". This is the perfect way to display those Seasonal Stitches that are only displayed "seasonally", during a special time of the year, or if your decorating tastes make you "switch it up" from time to time. They are easily made and fold down for easy storage.

How to store a flatfold: If the flatfold has been on display, take a natural bristle brush (i.e. I use a makeup "powder brush") and gently brush the flatfold face free of dust. Brush the back, sides and especially the top "bind" part to free all dust. Then, fold it down - if made the way I make mine (steps below) - pull the "fabric tongue" out so that the back piece is flat against the top face. Wrap in tissue paper, and lay flat in a plastic tote. During its next cycle of display it will emerge from the tote as perfect as the day you made it!

To finish a stitching project into a flatfold the way I do it, you will need:
1. Acid Free Mat Board
2. A Mack Knife or Cutting Knife of some kind
3. White Craft Glue (i.e. Aleene's Tacky Glue) available at most general stores and craft stores
4. Clear drying Craft Glue Spray (i.e. Aleene's Tacky Spray)
5. Cotton Batting
*I have finished personally and professionally for many years now and I find this to be superior to nylon fiber blend battings - it creates a more flat, perfect finish. It's a little more expensive, but worth the cost in the end.
6. Scissors/Rotary Cutter
7. Cutting Self Healing Mat
8. Large Quadrant Ruler
9. Stitched piece
10. Complimentary material (1/4 - 1/2 yard will be sufficient depending on size)
11. Pre-made cording OR 3-4 skeins of DMC that the piece is stitched with or compliments the stitching in color to make the cording.
*When using cording, I typically make my own cording at all times on all my projects, however for this project, I used pre-made purchased cording - found in local craft and material stores such as Joann's or Hobby Lobby.

Step 1:
a.) Gather your supplies and have them handy for use in a well lit work area.

b.) Measure your stitched piece and play around with the dimensions you would like to use for the piece. This stitched piece measured around 7 1/4 inches square. Once you decide on the size, cut FOUR pieces of mat board to that specified dimension.

*Line them up and make sure they are square. Take your time in determining this. In my opinion, there is nothing more detracting from a piece than to have sloppily sized, irregularly shaped pieces and it is quite noticeable at completion. Like the old adage, measure twice, cut once....take the time now so that at the end it is perfect.

STEP 2:
a.) Take TWO of the squares (these will eventually be your front "face board" and behind "back board"), and lightly spray them with the Craft Glue Spray.

HINT: In my craft room I use a large box that I lay a piece of heavy cardboard over the top like a table top. When I spray, any over-spray goes into the box and not on my carpet.

b.) After spraying, place the glue side down onto the cotton batting and cut the batting to the edges as shown below.

STEP 3:
a.) Mount the stitched piece onto one of the cotton batting covered board.

HINT: hold it up to the light when centering this helps to get it aligned perfectly

b.) Using White Craft Glue glue the edges of the centered stitching onto the back of the mat board.

HINT: Sticky glue fingers? No problem, I always keep a small plastic bucket (like an old gallon ice cream bucket) half filled with warm water and a hand towel right by my work area. If I get a bit of glue on my fingers I rinse and dry immediately without having to leave the room. When you are done working, dump and rinse the bucket and it will be ready for the next time!

c.) When completely mounted and glued down, set aside to dry as you work on the other components of the flatfold.

STEP 4:
a.) Cut out two pieces of complimenting fabric to the size of the square adding about 1- 2 inches per side so that the edges may be mounted to the back of the square. Then, spray the TWO pieces of mat board (WITH OUT BATTING!) with Craft Glue Spray.

b.) Lay the glue side flat down onto the cut pieces of complimentary fabric

c.) Glue the edges of the fabric to the back just as we did with the stitched part above.

d.) At the end of this step you will have TWO no batting, mat board pieces covered in the complimenting fabric.

STEP 5:
a.) Take the last remaining square (which will have cotton batting glued to the front) and cut a piece of the complimenting fabric to size with 1-2 inches of extra fabric on the bottom and sides but at least 3-4 inches at the top.

b.) Glue the bottom of the material to the back with the white craft glue and then on both sides run a line of glue up the sides all the way to the top of the material. Gently fold over, on both sides. When done your "back face" piece should look similar to the picture below.

c.) Sit it aside to dry a bit while you work on the other parts.

STEP 6:
a.) cut a piece of the complimenting fabric about 7 inches long and about 5 inches wide (now this is rough dimensions - all you have to do is cut a piece of fabric longer than it is wide)

b.) spray it lightly on the WRONG SIDE (of the fabric) with Spray Glue (follow along visually with the steps below)

c.) fold over one side 1/4 of width:

d.) fold over the other side with the edges meeting in the middle - then spray this side (as shown) lightly with spray glue.

e.) fold in half with edges meeting - finger press flat.

ASSEMBLY:
At this point you have all the components made to start assembling your flatfold. You should have:
1. ONE piece with the stitching mounted onto it
2. TWO pieces with complimentary fabric mounted onto it
3. ONE piece with three sides mounted and about 3-4 inches of fabric hanging off the top
4. ONE fabric tongue

(pieces pictured here)

STEP ONE:
a.) Take the "back face" board and at the top where the extra fabric is located, spray the glue spray lightly along the edge right along the top edge where my thumb is located (from corner to corner)

*This is VERY important for a later step and you will understand why at that time. But for just this time, spray the top edge of the board at the extra material line and then continue on with the step below.

STEP 2:
a.) Take the "back face" board (the one with the extra piece of fabric at the top) and place it flat on your work surface with the extra fabric at the top.

b.) center and glue with white craft glue ONE END of the fabric tongue to the bottom of the "back face" board (again this is the one with the extra fabric at the top)

c.) now take ONE of the boards that is mounted with the fabric only, liberally run glue lines on this piece as well as the bottom piece (I say liberally, but you don't have to go crazy AND you don't have to touch it to smooth the glue)

d.) sandwich the bottom "backing face" and the material mounted board together WITH THE EXTRA FABRIC LEFT OUT

*follow photos for visual reference - last photo shows what you should end up with at the end of this step

STEP 3:
a.) lay on top of the shape from above the last remaing piece of fabric mounted board (right sides together) align it to the bottom piece, so that stack is perfect aligned.

b.) Liberally run lines of glue at the top 1-2 inches of board as shown:

c.) fold over the extra piece of fabric and with much force, pull and stretch this fabric to make a tight bond at the top.

HINT: This is where the spray glue at step 1 above comes into play...that bit of spray glue will help adhere the material that will span the "sandwich" that we are making from the very bottom "back face" piece to this third layer in the sandwich. If this step is not performed in this manner, the flatfold pieces will not be sturdy and the front part will be wobbly and slip up when it is in display position. Think of it in this way - we've all had books that are bound, when they've reached a certain age, the binding is lost and a group of papers fall out. That is exactly what will happen if this step is not performed in the way described - with firm, pulling and gluing firmly down of the extra spanning fabric piece.

d.) Upon completion you will have a smooth, flat, tight, perfect edge top edge to your flatfold

STEP 4:
a.) Take the fabric tongue and center and glue it with white craft glue to the last material mounted square.

HINT: you only need about 2 - 3 inches span from back part of the face board to front part of the flatfold. So glue your fabric tongue keeping this length in consideration....you don't want a large gaping flatfold span, just a short one.

b.) then liberally run lines of white craft glue all over the material mounted board and mount the stitched piece on top of it.

HINT: At this time make sure - that all parts of the "sandwich" are perfectly aligned and "square", that there is no glue seeping out from any of the seams, that all edges are in contact. Take care of any glue seeping out, alignment issues now and move on to the next step.

STEP 5:
put the entire flatfold into a large ziplock back OR put plastic wrap loosely around it to protect it, then place it under your weighted pressing board/object of choice.

NOTE: Please see my "Special Shaped Ornament" tutorial for my weighted pressing object of choice (i.e. I use a milk crate filled with old magazines) The key is to have evenly distributed weight over the entire flatfold.

After 30 - 60 minutes your flatfold will emerge looking like this:

STEP 6:
Add a light line of white craft glue along the edge (one side at a time) until the cording meets at the top left hand corner. Allow the cording to dry a bit, then make a simple knot, cut the lengths and tie the ends off and your project is complete. You will have a perfect flatfold each and every time!
NOTE: You may also edge the flatfold face with ribbons, braiding, etc., add decorative pins or beads, add little "feet" for the flatfold to "stand" on and top it with frilly bows etc. The choice is limitless to primping the flatfold.

Stitching courtesy of Judith F.

Special Shaped Ornament Finishing and Tips...

2010-12-13T12:06:00.000-05:00

1. So....you've finished a project and want to make an ornament. First thing to do is press your ornament - then lay it out and think about the shape you'd like it to be.

TIP: At your local craft store, you can browse the scrapbooking aisle and find wonderful shape templates - maybe an oval would be nice for your ornament? circle? star? triangle? They are all available in templates such as these in the scrapbooking aisle of your local craft store.

2. You've picked an oval for your ornament now, what size will it be? measure and try out...

3. Using the template, trace the oval onto acid free mat board - also found at your local craft store, in the framing department.

4. Cut out your ovals using a pair of paper/general use scissors.

5. Make sure they match up, correctly.

6. Although they match up...the scissors leave an annoying imperfect edge... so what I do is get my fine grit sandpaper out and run my ovals (held together so that they will have identical edges) on to sandpaper, scraping the sides to a sanded smooth perfect edge.

7. Get out your batting and glue the mat board shapes to it

TIP: I used to use the polyester batting, but then I tried the 100% cotton batting (shown) and although it is a bit more expensive, it has a smooth, even, perfect finish, every time. I highly recommend it!

TIP: Instead of using white liquid glue, I have found that spray on acid free craft glue is the perfect technique for applying batting to the mat board. This is the brand I use.

TIP: I use a large cardboard box, with a piece of cardboard placed over the top, for my "spray table". Using the box allows any "over spray to go in the box and NOT on my carpet.

8. After your shapes have been pressed onto the batting material, trim the edges with your fabric scissors.

9. Now mount your stitched piece onto one of the shapes.

TIP: working in a well lit area, allows you to hold up your shape and stitched piece, there by seeing the shadow of the shape behind the stitching to mount and center it perfectly.

TIP: use a white, clear drying craft glue to glue the edges to the back side of the mounting board. I use the brand shown.

10. Pick out your complimentary backing material and iron.

TIP: Ironing everything - including any complimenting material for backings - makes for a neat, perfectly finished, professional looking end product. Take the time to do it, extra steps make all the difference!

11. Now mount the backing material onto the back, just like we did with the stitching.

TIP: if your complimenting material has a geometric shapes or lines to it, please make sure that it is on the mounting board straight. Not having it straight will mean ending up with a crooked unsightly finish.

12. Take the backing piece and spray the edge with the acid free spray glue (this will help the edge to be perfectly sealed with the stitched top.

13. Before sandwiching front and back together, add your hanger with the trim you are using. Notice I added white craft glue to the stitched top (in the background) too.

14. Press front and back together.

15. Now we are ready for the drying to begin - lay your project on top of some old magazines.

TIP: Now place your project inside a plastic bag so that it is protected and will not get dirty from anything during the drying process.

Layer some more magazines on top so that top and bottom is sandwiching your project.

get a box filled with old magazines and put on top of the whole kit and caboodle:

After about an hour.....

16. Now add your trim....add a small beaded line of glue:

Lay your trim along the edge:

17. At the very end after the trim has been put along the edge, I go back and secure with flathead pins so that it stays nicely, the pins will disappear into the trim and go unnoticed.

TIP: save your finger tips, purchase a small hammer to hammer the pins in.

Then there you have a perfectly finished special shaped ornament!

Ornament stitching courteousy of Donna O.

Finished by my finishing service

Pressing your stitching projects....

2010-12-13T10:11:00.000-05:00

1. Dress your ironing board correctly.
My ironing board has a layer of thin foam, then two ironing board covers for added cushioning, since I iron lots of stitching on it. You want it cushy so that your stitches are not flatened during the ironing process.

2. Use a pressing cloth...
or if you are like me, save old muslin scraps and fold them for added cushion and protection of your stitches - this will help protect any beads/buttons that may be added to your project.

3. Lay your stitching FACE DOWN on top of your pressing cloth.

4. Iron quickly on high heat.
Steam is great to use IF you have stitched the item in colorfast thread (i.e. DMC) overdyes are not colorfast and may bleed if steam is used.

5. Flip your project over and marvel at your wonderfully pressed project without the stitches being flatened.